Diving the Sulawesi Sea

During off-season this year when contrary winds make diving impractical along Gorontalo's southern coastline, Miguel's Diving has been assisting the provincial government in surveying various islands along Gorontalo's north coast. These are found in the Sulawesi Sea, which stretches from Borneo to the Philippines. Diving here has been quite different from that in Tomini Bay where we usually dive. Gone are the new and endemic species we have found at our southern dive sites. Shallow sandy bottoms predominate with numerous sea fans only rarely sited in the south. Because of the more open substrate, nudibranchs have been easy to find and in great variety. Among the rocks of Raja Island Miguel's Diving staff saw something we had never seen before: a Twinspot blenny (Escenius bimaculatus). And for good reason: it is not found in Tomini Bay but makes its home almost exclusively in the Sulawesi Sea. Diving in Gorontalo's northern islands will not be available any time soon because of infrastructure and distance. Raja Island, a jungle nature reserve and turtle nesting ground, takes over two hours by land and another hour by outrigger canoe to reach.

Treasure House

Diving in Gorontalo is indeed an adventure as divers found this week. In addition to our regular list of marine marvels, we managed to find and photograph too many ghost pipefish to remember and two pairs of exceptional Ambon scorpionfish (Pteroidichthys amboinensis). Even the extremely rare and tiny Teddy bear crab made a mercurial appearance before somersaulting off its rock. With the depth of focus so small, the slight surge made the cute creature in the viewfinder impossible to photograph. This week proved once again that Gorontalo is a treasure house for diving in Sulawesi.

Off Season Diving in Gorontalo, Sulawesi

With the exception of world famous Bunaken Marine Park, most other scuba diving locations around Sulawesi have distinct seasons. This includes diving in Sulawesi's Gorontalo Province. Fortunate weather during this last week of May has allowed advance scouts from a scuba diving club to enjoy the waters here in Gorontalo. Even our more weather-affected sites were available this week. For the most part we have enjoyed spectacular 25 - 30 meter visibility. Highlights of the final dive of the month include a school of 10 Yellowfin tuna, multiple schools of Shipjack tuna, a large school of Purse-eyed scad, countless schools of Yellow-dash, Banana, and Lunar fusiliers, a Green Turtle, a Napo.lean wrasse, Gold-spec jawfish, Mappa puffer, three huge Bumphead parrotfish playing follow-the-leader with us, and a school of Bottlenose dolphin frolicking overhead.

Business Trip to Gorontalo Made Better

Most Sulawesi diving locations are too remote to allow someone on a business trip to get in a quick dive or two prior to meetings - or afterwards. However, in Gorontalo our dive sites are so close to town that business people can make their trips here better by scuba diving, too. Miguel's Diving offers flexible scheduling to allow this. Even though May is considered off-season, we have been able to give business visitors a glimpse of what Gorontalo has to offer. With only one day to dive, travelers this month have enjoyed 25-meter visibility and seen some of our new or endemic species. If you are planning to be in Gorontalo anyway, contact us at Miguel's Diving to see what is possible.

Newest Endemic: Blue belly blenny

Miguel's Diving is pleased to announcement another confirmed endemic species in our area. The Blue belly blenny (Escenius caeruliventris) was only described scientifically by Springer and Allen in 2004 after it was first discovered in Tomini Bay, Sulawesi, where Miguel's Diving operates. Only this past dive season have we noticed this cute little fish, finding it in three widely separated dive sites. Several of our guests have been able to photograph it. Easily recognized by its dark blue belly, this blenny also has double white lines on its eyes. Please click the thumbnail to see a larger picture. Surely you can take a better photo. Ready to come to Gorontalo and try?

What Will be Next?

Our wide mix of guests this past week was able to see Gorontalo's ever-growing list of new, endemic, or undescribed species of marine life. Two of them were able to photograph the new endemic Togean dottyback that perhaps only five photographers worldwide have shot. They also photographed a commensal coral shrimp that we think is the newly discovered, undescribed one found only in northern Sulawesi. Miguel's Diving staff can't wait to see the photos! Also just this week we discovered the water under our dock is full of cute pipefish with orange fantails. This fish does not appear in any book, so Miguel's Diving staff is wondering what else will turn up this dive season.

Optimal

Diving in Sulawesi indeed has its seasons. Now is right in the middle of optimal diving season in Gorontalo. Whereas Manado, which faces North Sulawesi's Bunaken Marine Park, is suffering flooding and landslides, weather on the leeside of the Sulawesi's northern peninsula is wonderful. Diving today in Gorontalo we floated on blue, silky smooth seas and enjoyed bright sunshine that reach far underwater. At two of Gorontalo's truly unique dive site, Jinn Caves and Sentinels, we had at least 25-meter visibility. Divers could see from one pinnacle to the next and the large Nap.ol.ean wrasse in between two of them.

More Pygmies and More

Diving in Sulawesi never fails to amaze and delight. For diving guests fortunate to be in Gorontalo, we went back to look for those tiny seahorses today. There are not four but six pygmy seahorses on one sea fan.

At a muck site our dive master found a "White-V" mimic octopus, trying hard to move like a flounder, plus a very large Mimic Octopus with the banded arms, plus three cockatoo washfish, plus a couple beautiful red-banded Randall's alpheid shrimp. The list goes on.

For the third dive guests descended next to a school of hundreds of Purse-eyed scad, all swerving back and forth in turn-on-a-dime synchronicity. Those diving in Sulawesi's prime locations like Gorontalo can expect something special every trip.

Oh, It Is So Wonderful!

That is marine researcher Leyla Knittwise's reaction after only a single dive in Olele Bay, Gorontalo. Leyla along with the rest of the Wallacea Expedition Indonesia II team recorded 136 coral species and 160 species of fish during a single dive in mid-August. She said that Olele has notably higher marine biodiversity when compared to other locations surveyed during this expedition, including areas in western Gorontalo.

Coral researcher Dr. Jamaluddin Jompa from Makassar, Sulawesi's Hasanuddin University said, "Try to imagine the relative narrow coral reef here having such an abundant variety of coral and marine life!" Expedition coordinator Syafyuddin Yusuf said that Olele stands out from other diving locations in Indonesia. He particularly noted the unique ocean topography of Olele, including caves and huge crevasses, a certain draw for world class divers seeking to enjoy natural beauty below the sea. (Since all Miguel's Diving staff was out of the area at the time, the Wallacea team missed the towering coral pinnacles that make Olele famous to those who have been diving with us.)

The Wallacea team was impressed with how easily large Napol.ean wrasse were to find. They credit efforts by Olele villagers in protecting this fish and their narrow reef. Butterflyfishes are considered a key indicator of reef health. The number of butterfly species found and their abundance puts the health of Olele above coral reefs found in other parts of Sulawesi, including Bunaken Island, Takabonerate Atoll, Togian Islands, and Spermonde Archipelago.

This web post came from an article in Gorontalo Post 16 August 2005.

Season Opener

Dive season in Gorontalo has officially opened with tons of fish and 30-meter visibility. Our first guest was quite impressed with the brilliant diving available here. Having been diving in five neighboring Asian countries, her first time diving in Sulawesi was memorable. She especially liked how easy the access is: dive sites within a few minutes over amazingly calm waters of deep cobalt blue. She was glad that guests of Miguel?s Diving never have to lift a tank or worry with dive gear. Dolphins, flying fish, and a couple of huge Napol.eon wrasse appeared on cue. On the boat ladder after her last dive, she said, ?I don?t want to get out of the water!?

Churning Waters for Specie Count

With calm conditions returning to Sulawesi?s Tomini Bay, Miguel?s Diving staff conducted a species count for one of our new dive sites, Sponge Wall. Although seas were flat, below the surface cool upwellings collided with warm surface waters, creating cloudy conditions at lower depths and numerous thermoclimes in unexpected places. Mild currents changed directions several times during the dive.

For those familiar with diving in Sulawesi, the sheer variety of fish at this site should come at no surprise. Our dive master recorded 138 species of fish during the 69-minute dive. First time discoveries included a frenetic school of distinctive wrasses (Thalassoma sp.) at the reef crest that are not in any of our books, Double-pore fangblennies (Meiacanthus ditrema) schooling in a tangle of hanging rope sponge, and a Banded snake eel (Myrichthys colubrinus) that mimics the poisonous sea krait. Among other things, Dive guide Yunis turned up a Bicolor dragon aeolid nudibranch (Flabellina bicolor) plus a very cute octopus.

Canoe Diving

Back in the old days, Sulawesi diving was only accessible to the intrepid diver. This typically meant using whatever transportation was available, including small outrigger canoes favored by local fisherman. Only a few meters long, the boat is stabilized by ?wings? on either side. Together with a couple local lads paddling, divers could be taken to a pristine site. This week an ex-pat businessman got to experience this traditional way of Sulawesi diving. Because winds are still too strong to take out the large boat, Miguel?s Diving arranged for outrigger canoes (one per diver) to carry us to a prime dive site in the confines of a sheltered bay. A small motor powers each canoe, making for easy pick-up after the dives and a quick ride back to the beach.

So how was entering and exiting the water from a tiny canoe? ?A piece of cake,? according to our guest. He found the site amazing, particularly the dense schools of deep blue Red-tooth triggers (Odonus niger). After seeing Gorontalo?s new species of commensal shrimps, he remarked, ?How do you find these things?? When diving season resumes in November with the shift in the winds, we will be back to our regular dive boat. Although diving by canoe is no longer common in Sulawesi, diving by kayak is popular in some places in the Caribbean, like the British Virgin Islands. Divers in Bali typically use a larger outrigger canoe.

Cool Diving in Sulawesi – Really!

During the diving season in Gorontalo, the waters of Tomini Bay formed by Sulawesi’s central arms are quite warm. Temperatures at safe diving depths are between 29 and 30 degrees Celsius. This is indeed warm when compared with other Sulawesi diving locations. However, Miguel’s Diving staff slipped into a sheltered bay to do some muck diving on Saturday and found that temperatures had plunged to 26 degrees. But in the mud at 20 meters we found a waving colony of Dusky garden eels (Heteroconger enigmaticus). Endemic to eastern Indonesian waters and Papua New Guinea, these dark, speckled eels are a relatively new scientific discovery, having only been named in 1999. Not far away among scattered pebbles a Snake blenny (Xiphasia setifer) peered from its burrow. With a body length reaching over half a meter, this strange fish has distinctive, large opaque eyes.

A black ball wobbled in a sudden rush of cold down current from the disturbed surface. Upon closer inspection, it turned out to be a juvenile puffer with its tail carefully curled around its body. At shallower depths, isolated stands of bushy green coral were crowded with white-striped shrimps with long claws. Among the rocks in a meter of water, a Flying gurnard (Dactyloptena orientalis) spread its wings. Cool Sulawesi diving indeed.

Sulawesi Diving on Both Sides of the Equator

In cooperation with Black Marlin Dive of the Togian (Togean) Islands, Miguel’s Diving is pleased to offer diving on both sides of the equator in Sulawesi’s huge Tomini Bay. Those diving the Togian (Togean) Islands can dive fringing reefs, a barrier reef, and atolls south of equator. On its north side Gorontalo offers some of everything: dramatic walls, shallow coral gardens, multiple pinnacles, muck diving, and a couple of wrecks as well. This special promotional price is valid from November 2004 to April 2005. Ready to kiss King Neptune’s belly?

Diver’s Dream Package*
Saturday:
Airport pickup in Gorontalo & check into Hotel Melati
Sunday – Wednesday:
8 boat dives with Miguel’s Diving, including tanks, weights, bottled water, and transport
4 nights & 1 extended day @ Hotel Melati (air-conditioned room & breakfast only)
Wednesday:
Evening boat to Kadidiri Island, including transport to port, boat ticket, and small cabin
Thursday – Sunday :
7 boat dives & 2 night dives with Black Marlin Dive Resort, including tanks, weights, and dive equipment
4 nights in a beach bungalow with western bathroom and three meals a day
Monday:
1 morning dive, breakfast & lunch
Afternoon boat back to Gorontalo, including transport to port, boat ticket, and small cabin
Tuesday:
Morning arrival in Gorontalo
Transport from port to town and/or airport
Promotional rate: USD$787 twin share including tax
Single supplement: USD$55

*Although this diving package is built around existing flight & boat schedules, Miguel’s Diving is not responsible for changes in these schedules.

Wonders of the North Coast

Gorontalo’s northern coastline marks the southern boundary of the Sulawesi Sea. This week Miguel’s Diving staff took a day for diving around one of the offshore islands about three hours from Gorontalo City. The long drive was worth sightings of creatures we have not seen in Tomini Bay, where we offer diving along Gorontalo’s southern shore. This includes the Tawny nurse shark (Nebrius ferrugineus) we found resting on the sand bottom. Nearby several patches of Black Garden eels (Heteroconger perissodon) swayed hypnotically. This eel is known only from Indonesia and the Philippines. We have only found one small colony in our Tomini Bay sites. On a clump of coral a Crocodile fish (Cymbacephalus beauforti) lay motionless not far from a Hawksbill sea turtle. Doublebanded soapfish (Diploprion bifasciatum) glowed in stylish yellow. In addition to this soapfish, Anchor coral (Euphyllia ancora) and Grape cluster colonial tunicates (Oxyxorynia fascicularis) are not present at our regular dive sites.

In midwater, countless fairy wrasse dashed about searching for current-borne tidbits. Possibly Bluesided fairy wrasse (Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura), these half blue fish are not found in Tomini Bay where our endemic Orangeback wrasse dominates. While ascending after a safety stop, we were surrounded by millions of minnows swimming frantically to elude predators.

The sea grass beds and sand slope were just as fascinating as the coral and shallow sand channel. A pair of Flying gurnards (Dactyloptena orientalis) spread their blue-edged fins in flight. A Cockatoo leaf fish (Ablabys taenianotus) bobbed in perfect imitation of a nearby mangrove leaf. Intricately coiffured, a Rockmover wrasse (Novaculichthys taeniourus) turned over rubble under the wary gaze of an octopus in its den. Several commensal shrimp species that we have never seen bear need for a closer inspection – with a camera! One compact, deep red anemone sheltered a number of purple-spotted shrimp. Although we found two colonies of Pinkeye gobies ( Bryaninops natans), most of the unique species we promote in Tomini Bay were not available around this island in the Sulawesi Sea.

Gorontalo Exclusive: White Foxtail Colonial Tunicates

Gorontalo is close to Sulawesi diving hot spots of Bunaken Marine Park, Lembeh, and the Togian (Togean) Islands. However, we are often finding things unknown to those familiar with diving in these adjacent locations. One striking example is what Phuket?s dive guru calls White foxtails after a recent visit. These are colonial tunicates whose translucent white members grow from a central basal stalk. These foxtails are found in Gorontalo hanging from sheltered overhangs and deep pinnacles where they are protected from the current. Some colonies are almost a meter in length.

Tunicates are marine animals that have an incurrent and an excurrent siphon for pulling in food and releasing waste. Tunicates are also called ascidians or sea squirts. Most of our marine biologist buddies had never seen these until diving here. You are only likely to see these beautiful foxtails by diving in Gorontalo, Sulawesi?s newest location for finding unusual marine life.